Manikarnika- cremation ghat at Varanasi

 

At 11.00 pm three of us women were dropped off at the main road. We walked through very narrow dark alleys to reach the ghat. 

A friend of mine suggested we visit at midnight. Not nearly midnight but we made it. Very bravely we went through the maze of alleys; fortunately for us we met one odd or soul or the other who guided us.

When we reached the cremation area we found only men there- some were selling logs of wood for the cremation; some were tonsuring their heads ( a ritual followed during death ceremony) and some were seated staring into the sky or at us. One chap was selling tea. One chap offered to give us the 'guide' know how of the place. Politely declining and ignoring the looks we climbed up the stairs- yes there is this three storied building with huge furnaces where the cremation is done. The electric crematorium is also housed here. We climbed up to get a closer look. We could not take the fuming heat. We stood; observed a few seconds of silence, staring into the burning pyres of unknown people.  

The pyres burn 24/7. A minimum of 200 are cremated everyday. Strangely there is no stink of death here. 

There is an old Shiva temple that leans at 9 degrees- four degrees more than the leaning tower of Pisa. It is supposed to have been built during the Mughal period- either by Man Singh's servant or by the servant of Ahalyabai Holkar ( facts are unclear). Most times of the year the inner sanctum is submerged under water.

One of the walls of the crematorium, had these words painted which after translation loosely means - Taking birth is in the hands of destiny, death - it comes upon the time decided, after death, how we live in the hearts of people depends on our deeds. 

Profound! we have no control over birth and death; the only factor we can control is how we 'live' in this world. All of us know this yet how many of us are mindful.  Often we need to reinforce so as to live a meaningful life.

I wonder what drew me here 

To be one with unknown souls!

If death is fascinating..

How magnificent is this LIFE,

Thank you Creator, 

Thank you Universe!

 



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