Badami–Hampi trip

 

3 of us women friends decided to go on a heritage trip. We went through several touristy stuff. It was then we realised that a young friend of ours had been on this ‘different’ trip with a new upcoming group http://www.f5escapes.com/about/. Intrigued we began communication with Malini of f5 escapes. Communication exchange was prompt. All the arrangements were taken care of without a hitch.

we took the double decker train to Bangalore from Chennai. It is a good train to travel in. Food is sold in plenty so we never went hungry. The train is also maintained well. Seats are like the economy class of a low cost airline.

We got off at Bangalore and rested for a couple of hours at the nearest YMCA. The evening train Gol Gumbaz express arrived on time and transported us to Badami.  It is wise to get a porter for Rs 120 at Bangalore station as we have to negotiate climbs up and down.

Badami station looked run down. I couldn't believe that this quaint place was once the thriving capital of Pulakesin II ( Chalukyas). Huge rock cliffs lined the highway. we stayed at the Heritage resort http://theheritage.co.in/. This is a pure veg resort! aslight setback for a carnivore like me. But the staff is good so one of them even volunteered to buy from outside, when he saw my crestfallen face. I declined politely. f5 escapes included all meals except a couple of lunches in the places we stayed.

Badami caves, Bhutnatha temple complex,Agastya lake and several other attractions all made out of red sandstone are marvellous.

Badami was known as Vatapi in the ancient times.

From Badami a car took us to Aihole and Pattadakal complex. They are poetry in red sandstone. Nagara, Dravidian and the mandapa style shikharas can be seen. These places are very well maintained by the ASI and locals.

Thick and yummy curd/yoghurt are sold in little mud pots. Bottles of buttlermilk, jowari rotis are not to be missed. Huge guavavas were also available in plenty.

All the locals speak a smattering of English and Hindi.

After a night stay at Badami we proceeded to Haampi via the Kishkinta valley. It was enthralling to see the huge boulders encircling the valley. The hills are made of huge boulders. This is significant of this place.

Here we stayed at Uramma heritage homes. Hospitality is excellent here. It is a very eco friendly resort. The food is simple tasty and yummy. A special mention must be made of Siraj, the Guest Relations Manager. He is very courteous, always sporting a smile and very good at his job. Observing minor details about the guests' likes and dislikes is their USP.

A couple of minutes walk and we are at the banks of the famed Tungabhadra river. A ferry awaits to take us to Hampi. Walking into this historic region we are immediately transported to the medieval times. I felt as if I was a princess walking amidst the grandiose capital of the Vijaynagar empire.

Hampi is a stark contrast to Badami. Here monolithic stones, rough granite stud the ruins. Once known for its gold. diamonds and gemstones, today it lies in ruins. Full credit to ASI and the locals for taking care of it so well.

Virupaksha temple, Underground Shiva temple, Elephant stables, lotus mahal and a myriad of market places, temples and mandapas- all so enchanting and fairy tale like.

One would fall in love with Krishna Deva Raya as you walk amidst the rock splendour.

Both Badami and Hampi are true stories –stories that tell you vividly that nothing is permanent in this world. But what we could leave behind is a legacy!

Do take a coracle ride while you are here and visit the local market too. Banana fibre factory set up by the Kishkinta trust does a good job f empowering women and also showcasing our heritage. Plenty of banana fibre products that are targeted for the rich foreigners!

End September is a good time for visiting but the best season is from November- March. Hats/ umbrellas, good walking shoes, plenty of water are a must. Lot of walking is needed to see these places.

This is indeed the ANGKOR WAT of India but much better and grander.