Kailasha Yatra
In November 2018 my friend suggested that we go on one of our bucket list destinations. Thus was born the dream of visiting Mount Kailash and Lake Manasarovar. About 17 years ago I had resolved to visit these places with my best friend. Hence it was a sentimental dream. It took me three months to decide though due to the cost factor.
Once I decided I embarked on a fitness program - a couple of months of gymming, a month of yoga and avoided non veg, milk intake in coffee/tea etc.
Decathalon the new sports store 9 or palace should I say!) provided us the necessary gear- shoes, thermals, flask, socks etc. Keep aside approximately ten grand for all this. The stuff is good and worth every paisa.
We flew via New Delhi to Kathmandu.
Kathmandu was disappointing especially due to old memories from films like Hare Rama, Hare Krishna. At Kathmandu we visited Pashupathinath temple ( the lingam is beautiful), the jalanarayan temple ( the sleeping idol of Vishnu is gorgeous) and the Swayambhu mahachaitya temple.
We flew to Lhasa. I was taken aback at the progress and massive construction happening in the city. There are good eateries. One can have Nepali thali which is quite similar to a simple north Indian thali. We visited the Potala Palace ( Dalai Lama's) and the Jokhang temple. This is the most sacred temple in Tibet. The Potala Place is a beautiful piece of architecture and it is heartening to see the devotion of the locals. Everywhere we can see and feel the presence of Chinese military and Police.
After an overnight stay we left for Shigatse. Here we visited the Tashilhunpo Monastery. It is the seat to the Panchen Lama, the second most important spiritual leader of Tibet. A quiet, serene place where you can hear the deep Buddhist chants that will sear your soul!
From Shigatse we drove to Saga for the next overnight halt. The Tibetan villages look desolate and empty.The Chinese are boring tunnels through every mountain they can lay their hands on!
We crossed two passes at an altitude of 5000 meters with stunning views. En route we sighted River Tsang Po (Brahmaputra) gurgling past green meadows. The meadows are populated by sheep and yak.
Saga is also the place where Indian pilgrims travelling via various routes converge before leaving for Lake Manasarovar. All the meals are prepared at once venue hence it is quite chaotic. In fact it is best to be on a very sparse diet of apples and tea from here on. Public toilets are miserable and the two holiest spots do not have toilet facilities. It becomes very tough for females.
From Saga it is about 8 hours to Lake Manasarovar. The first sight of the mighty lake gives us goosebumps- both from the cool breeze and due to its gorgeousness. I watched bemused at pilgrims chanting shlokas and raising their folded hands to the first view of Mount Kailash in the distant horizon. It is difficult not to get tuned into the devotional atmosphere.
This is a fresh water lake separated by a narrow natural channel of water from lake Rakshathal. The latter is a deep blue saline lake. According to mythology, Ravana is said to have meditated on its shores. I loved the raw beauty of this serene lake.
Lake Manasarovar has waves lapping at its shores, snow clad peaks on its far horizon. Pilgrims and tourists rush to dip their feet ( bathing is forbidden thankfully now) and fill water in cans (sold there) and bottles. The water is freezing cold and again mythology says that one's sins are washed off if one drinks the water or bathes in it.
It is very meditative to gaze into the lake and touch the crystal clear waters. The devotion of people stupefy me as many wade into the water to take the prohibited bath and to dip their heads into the water. One man fell unconscious due to the extreme cold water.
I was happy to just touch the water and sprinkle a few drops on my head symbolically. We also dipped the rudraksh beads we had bought at kathmandu.
We stayed in primitive mud houses. As planned we had an extremely light dinner. Electricity goes off at 9 pm. We huddled beneath a double layer of heavy blankets. the cold still seeped into our bones.
The next morning we woke up to a sunny day. We strolled alongside the lake drinking in its shimmering beauty and inhaling the clean air. Amidst chants of Shiva, I sat and quietened my mind for a few minutes.
At manasarovar we have to book porters and mules in advance for the parikrama.
After a light breakfast we set off to Darchen, the outpost near Kailash. It began snowing in the evening and were presumably excited on experiencing the snowfall.
Thankfully the next morning the sun shone bright and we headed off to Yam dwar. This monument is built in the Buddhist style. We circumambulated thrice . It is symbolic of leaving our mortal selves to enter into divine Kailash.
The first day of Parikrama or kora begins from here. We can see the South face of Kailash and chanting Om Nama Shivaya we set off. Our backpacks contain an extra set of clothing, thermals, raincoat, socks, thermos flask of hot water and some energiers like candy. It is wise to hire a porter to carry the backpack unless one is very fit. I had to eventually remove a few layers of clothing during the trek. One layer of clothing over the thermals is enough.
Gazing at the South face of the Kailash, I drew my energy to trek happily. The trail is mild with a few bumps. It is the altitude and low oxygen that we ought to consider and be aware of.
The trek is not a competition hence trek at your own pace. Be aware of every step and one's breath. It is magical how this trek helps us to remain grounded. We are in the moment, in the present. Pride, ego, emotional baggage melt away. The raw power of the Himalayas makes us feel so humble. The enchanting partially frozen stream gurgles and hisses alongside. Slowly I see the west face of Kailash,
It is so daunting. Stark, black , covered in thin snow, Kailash made me raise my hands in prostration and chant the Om nama Shivaya. Why did you bring me here? I closed my eyes in gratitude. As I trudged, so many questions, so many doubts. I searched for the answers. I sighted the Derapukh camp ahead. Thinking it was near I increased my pace. Ah, it wasn't. I paused. Was this not similar to life. We run to catch, the catch eludes...
Om nama Shivaya was my psychological walking stick. I ploughed on this self exploratory journey. Away from my cell phone, away from the bustling crowd, my quietend mind... no questions now...just my breath and me.
It took me almost eight hours to reach the camp. It is at the base of the north face of Kailash. Exhausted I took the first cot and lay down. I was at 5064m high. It was bone chilling cold. It was terrible. I stepped out to look at Kailash. It appeared to frown at me! Well wasn't I frowning too. I was hating the cold and longing to get back to my warm city.
A hot broth was comforting. I woke up in the still of the night to relieve myself. I was a little scared to be alone. I looked up. Millions of stars were twinkling at me. The outline of Kailash was reassuring. He was there looking out for me.
In the morning it was amazing to see the intense devotion of, to hear the chants and to witness the pale early morning sun gently draping the Kailash.
Cradling a hot cup of tea I mused. I drank the tea, I drank in the majesty of Kailash.
I had decided not to proceed with the next two days of parikrama and so did the rest of the group. We were duly warned by the Tibetan authorities of snowfall hence we decided not to take a risk.
With one more long look at the Kailash I returned. With bliss embracing me inside and out....
I had left my city as an agnostic. I returned to life as a believer.
Once I decided I embarked on a fitness program - a couple of months of gymming, a month of yoga and avoided non veg, milk intake in coffee/tea etc.
Decathalon the new sports store 9 or palace should I say!) provided us the necessary gear- shoes, thermals, flask, socks etc. Keep aside approximately ten grand for all this. The stuff is good and worth every paisa.
We flew via New Delhi to Kathmandu.
Kathmandu was disappointing especially due to old memories from films like Hare Rama, Hare Krishna. At Kathmandu we visited Pashupathinath temple ( the lingam is beautiful), the jalanarayan temple ( the sleeping idol of Vishnu is gorgeous) and the Swayambhu mahachaitya temple.
We flew to Lhasa. I was taken aback at the progress and massive construction happening in the city. There are good eateries. One can have Nepali thali which is quite similar to a simple north Indian thali. We visited the Potala Palace ( Dalai Lama's) and the Jokhang temple. This is the most sacred temple in Tibet. The Potala Place is a beautiful piece of architecture and it is heartening to see the devotion of the locals. Everywhere we can see and feel the presence of Chinese military and Police.
After an overnight stay we left for Shigatse. Here we visited the Tashilhunpo Monastery. It is the seat to the Panchen Lama, the second most important spiritual leader of Tibet. A quiet, serene place where you can hear the deep Buddhist chants that will sear your soul!
From Shigatse we drove to Saga for the next overnight halt. The Tibetan villages look desolate and empty.The Chinese are boring tunnels through every mountain they can lay their hands on!
We crossed two passes at an altitude of 5000 meters with stunning views. En route we sighted River Tsang Po (Brahmaputra) gurgling past green meadows. The meadows are populated by sheep and yak.
Saga is also the place where Indian pilgrims travelling via various routes converge before leaving for Lake Manasarovar. All the meals are prepared at once venue hence it is quite chaotic. In fact it is best to be on a very sparse diet of apples and tea from here on. Public toilets are miserable and the two holiest spots do not have toilet facilities. It becomes very tough for females.
From Saga it is about 8 hours to Lake Manasarovar. The first sight of the mighty lake gives us goosebumps- both from the cool breeze and due to its gorgeousness. I watched bemused at pilgrims chanting shlokas and raising their folded hands to the first view of Mount Kailash in the distant horizon. It is difficult not to get tuned into the devotional atmosphere.
This is a fresh water lake separated by a narrow natural channel of water from lake Rakshathal. The latter is a deep blue saline lake. According to mythology, Ravana is said to have meditated on its shores. I loved the raw beauty of this serene lake.
Lake Manasarovar has waves lapping at its shores, snow clad peaks on its far horizon. Pilgrims and tourists rush to dip their feet ( bathing is forbidden thankfully now) and fill water in cans (sold there) and bottles. The water is freezing cold and again mythology says that one's sins are washed off if one drinks the water or bathes in it.
It is very meditative to gaze into the lake and touch the crystal clear waters. The devotion of people stupefy me as many wade into the water to take the prohibited bath and to dip their heads into the water. One man fell unconscious due to the extreme cold water.
I was happy to just touch the water and sprinkle a few drops on my head symbolically. We also dipped the rudraksh beads we had bought at kathmandu.
We stayed in primitive mud houses. As planned we had an extremely light dinner. Electricity goes off at 9 pm. We huddled beneath a double layer of heavy blankets. the cold still seeped into our bones.
The next morning we woke up to a sunny day. We strolled alongside the lake drinking in its shimmering beauty and inhaling the clean air. Amidst chants of Shiva, I sat and quietened my mind for a few minutes.
At manasarovar we have to book porters and mules in advance for the parikrama.
After a light breakfast we set off to Darchen, the outpost near Kailash. It began snowing in the evening and were presumably excited on experiencing the snowfall.
Thankfully the next morning the sun shone bright and we headed off to Yam dwar. This monument is built in the Buddhist style. We circumambulated thrice . It is symbolic of leaving our mortal selves to enter into divine Kailash.
The first day of Parikrama or kora begins from here. We can see the South face of Kailash and chanting Om Nama Shivaya we set off. Our backpacks contain an extra set of clothing, thermals, raincoat, socks, thermos flask of hot water and some energiers like candy. It is wise to hire a porter to carry the backpack unless one is very fit. I had to eventually remove a few layers of clothing during the trek. One layer of clothing over the thermals is enough.
Gazing at the South face of the Kailash, I drew my energy to trek happily. The trail is mild with a few bumps. It is the altitude and low oxygen that we ought to consider and be aware of.
The trek is not a competition hence trek at your own pace. Be aware of every step and one's breath. It is magical how this trek helps us to remain grounded. We are in the moment, in the present. Pride, ego, emotional baggage melt away. The raw power of the Himalayas makes us feel so humble. The enchanting partially frozen stream gurgles and hisses alongside. Slowly I see the west face of Kailash,
It is so daunting. Stark, black , covered in thin snow, Kailash made me raise my hands in prostration and chant the Om nama Shivaya. Why did you bring me here? I closed my eyes in gratitude. As I trudged, so many questions, so many doubts. I searched for the answers. I sighted the Derapukh camp ahead. Thinking it was near I increased my pace. Ah, it wasn't. I paused. Was this not similar to life. We run to catch, the catch eludes...
Om nama Shivaya was my psychological walking stick. I ploughed on this self exploratory journey. Away from my cell phone, away from the bustling crowd, my quietend mind... no questions now...just my breath and me.
It took me almost eight hours to reach the camp. It is at the base of the north face of Kailash. Exhausted I took the first cot and lay down. I was at 5064m high. It was bone chilling cold. It was terrible. I stepped out to look at Kailash. It appeared to frown at me! Well wasn't I frowning too. I was hating the cold and longing to get back to my warm city.
A hot broth was comforting. I woke up in the still of the night to relieve myself. I was a little scared to be alone. I looked up. Millions of stars were twinkling at me. The outline of Kailash was reassuring. He was there looking out for me.
In the morning it was amazing to see the intense devotion of, to hear the chants and to witness the pale early morning sun gently draping the Kailash.
Cradling a hot cup of tea I mused. I drank the tea, I drank in the majesty of Kailash.
I had decided not to proceed with the next two days of parikrama and so did the rest of the group. We were duly warned by the Tibetan authorities of snowfall hence we decided not to take a risk.
With one more long look at the Kailash I returned. With bliss embracing me inside and out....
I had left my city as an agnostic. I returned to life as a believer.
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